As in many of the best known and most interesting wine-growing regions in Europe, viticulture has a long tradition in the Mittelburgenland region in Austria. It all began more than 2000 years ago with the Celts, and experienced a first golden age in Roman times, with a second high point in the 14th century, after the mass migrations of the time. The region that is today the Mittelburgenland had a difficult time in the era of the Turkish Wars in the 16th and 17th centuries, in terms of viticulture, the great watershed was the last third of the 19th century, when phylloxera was introduced to the region. In the early 20th century, then, the Blaufränkisch variety became the leading grape variety in the Mittelburgenland. 

Nowhere else in the world is this noble variety cultivated so intensively and so successfully as here, in „Blaufränkischland“.  With a vineyard area of 1170 ha, it accounts for 55,6% of the total vineyard area of the Mittelburgenland, which is just more than 2000 ha, and the share is still rising. Vineyard slopes with predominantly heavy, clay-rich soils that provide good water retention, as well as the opening of the valley to the Pannonian plains provide the best conditions for the optimum performance of this late-ripening variety with its mainly small berries. In addition, the area has a number of vineyards with very old  Blaufränkisch vines  – some as much as 80 years old – that provide very low yields, but highly desirable top-quality grapes.

Given such a level of specialisation, and such a dominant position of the Blaufränkisch variety, it was only to be expected that this would be reflected in the name of the region. A clear positioning within the Austrian viticultural scene was achieved by deciding on the synonym: “Mittelburgenland – Blaufränkischland“.

The next logical Stepp became possible through an update of the Austrian wine laws in 2000. It was provided that, as of July 2002, quality wines with a clear and unmistakeable regional character and taste profile may be marketed with the designation of the region of origin together with the letters „DAC“. DAC  stands for „Districtus Austriae Controllatus“, which in turn is Latin for „Controlled Austrian designation of origin“. 

With this innovative step, Austria took over a facet of the established marketing systems of major wine-producing countries such as France (AOC), Italy (DOC), and Spain (DO), with the name of the region taking on the function of a brand. „The increasing industrialisation of the international wine industry demands that Austria makes its own position very clear. In Austria, the focus is on terroir, manual work and the origin of the wine“, that is the motto of the  Österreichischen Weinmarketing-Gesellschaft (ÖWM) – the Austrian Wine Marketing Bureau.

The Mittelburgenland is the first predominantly red-wine-producing region in Austria to follow this strategy. As of the 2005 vintage, typical Blaufränkisch wines will be marketed as „Mittelburgenland DAC“.

The regional wine committee responsible did not always have an easy time, as the divergent interests of the wine producers as well as those of both large and small institutions had to be considered. The project was realised thanks to the enthusiasm and diplomatic abilities of committee president Anton Iby assisted in the background by the general manager of the Burgenland wine marketing authority, Willi Balanjuk. This included close co-operation with the federal office for viticulture in Eisenstadt, which led to an interesting conclusion. To quote Dr. Walter Flak, head of the federal office for viticulture: „It was possible to clearly identify the region of origin (Mittelburgenland wine-growing region) in terms of analysis and statistical evaluation of wine components, particularly of the minerals and aroma components. Of particular note were the resveratrol levels, which are very high by international standards“.

This also proves scientifically that the Blaufränkisch wines from the Blaufränkischland are unmistakeable, and have their own distinctive character. 42 wine producers have so far decided to produce their Blaufränkisch in accordance with the strict regulations that apply both in the vineyard and in the cellar, and to voluntarily accept the controls involved. This group includes all the key producers in the region.

A clear, fruit-driven style that is quite lively

Probably the most important question that arises in conjunction with the Mittelburgenland DAC is that regarding the typical taste of the wines. This has been clearly evident in tastings held to date: delicately spicy nose with aromas of blackberries, blueberries, cherries, with full-bodied, robust fruit, juicy, with light notes of mint, light acidity, dry with fairly prominent tannins. Its clear, fruit-driven style that is at the same time quite lively characterise the variety at all levels of ripeness and maturity, and in all production styles, the mineral structure and the overall picture can readily and unmistakeably be associated with the Mittelburgenland.

The major theme tasting of Mittelburgenland DAC

The recent major tasting conducted by Wein-Plus (wine guide) of the „Classic“ and „Riede“ (single vineyard) categories gives credence to the basic tenets of the concept, and shows that the wines presented at a uniformly high level of quality.

It is very rare that we at Wein-plus have experienced a tasting with wines rom more than 30 producers in a single region with practically no disappointing wines, and with plenty of very positive examples. This shows that the previous “locomotives” of the area, such as Gesellmann, Igler, Gager, Heinrich, Weninger, Wellanschitz and several others have successfully motivated their colleagues in the region, in producing such a pleasant and satisfactory result.

We are certainly looking forward with interest to the release of the „Reserve“ wines, which will be released for sale as of March 2007. Based on our experiences so far, we expect to find a lot of positive results. And considering that the 2006 vintage was a great one in this region, the success of the new category should come about even more quickly than one might expect in any case.

The legal regulations for »Mittelburgenland DAC«

(An extract from the regulations) The grapes for the wine are picked exclusively in the Mittelburgenland wine-growing region, and the wine must be produced from the Blaufränkisch variety. Small amounts of other varieties (up to 15%) in a blend will be tolerated. The designation »DAC« must appear on the label in direct conjunction with the term »Mittelburgenland«.

The wine-growing region, the defined region »Burgenland« and the naming of regional/large vineyard sites is not permitted. The commune name and/or the name of a specific vineyard site may be mentioned on the label. Additional descriptions, such as »Qualitätswein«, »Kabinett« or »Spätlese« are not permitted.

Where a brand name, the grape variety or a smaller geographic unit of origin are stated, this must be done in such a fashion that these items are, as far as possible, subordinated to the mention of the Mittelburgenland wine-growing region.

Clear legal requirements are reflected on the label

 

Other items covered are the obligatory mention of a vintage, the statement of a minimum alcohol level of 12,5 % or 13 % on the label, and bottling in glass bottles (litre and two-litre bottles are definitely excluded).

The content of malic acid must be smaller than or equal to 0,5 g/litre, and residual sugar may not exceed 2,5 g/litre. In addition, the wine must exhibit the following basic characteristics: deep red colour, typical varietal bouquet and typical varietal taste.

Legal testing

The commission responsible for tasting the wines with a view to issuing a state control number for wine allowed to be marketed as »Mittelburgenland DAC« performs its duties at central office of the federal office for viticulture. A »Mittelburgenland DAC« must be produced entirely in the Mittelburgenland wine-growing region, but may be bottled outside the area. Production outside the area may only take place with specific authorisation by the Burgenland regional wine committee. Such exceptions may be granted where the vineyards of the producer are located in the Mittelburgenland, while vinification and production take place at a facility owned by the producer, but located outside the Mittelburgenland growing region, or similar cases. A wine carrying the »Mittelburgenland DAC« designation of origin may only be transported outside the wine-growing region once it bears the state control number.

Mittelburgenland DAC wines – recognisable by their capsuler

»Mittelburgenland DAC« wines are sold exclusively with a distinctive capsule, the design of which has been specified by the Burgenland regional wine committee. A logical consequence of this is that the term „Mittelburgenland“ on the label will in future be reserved for DAC wines. All other quality wines produced in the region may not use the term, they will have to refer to “Burgenland” as the region of origin.

Permissible additional designations for Mittelburgenland DAC

Classic: in order to bear the designation »Classic«, a wine must exhibit a typical varietal taste with fruity and spicy notes. The wine must be matured either in traditional large oak barrels and/or in stainless steel tanks. The wine may not display an oaky note, or only a very light oaky note. The wine may not be sold or passed on to consumers before the 1st of March of the year following the vintage.

The application for allocation of a state control number for a wine bearing the designation »Mittelburgenland DAC« may be made as of the 1st of January of the year following the vintage.

Riede (vineyard site) or Brand: In order to bear a vineyard site name or a brand, the wine must be full-bodied, and must exhibit fruity, spicy taste characteristics typical of the varietal. The wine must be matured in traditional large oak barrels and/or in used barriques. The wine may not exhibit an oaky note, or only a light oaky note. The alcohol content must be stated on the label, and must be 13 to 13,5 %. The wine may not be sold or passed on to consumers before the 1st of September of the year following the vintage.

The application for allocation of a state control number for a wine with the designation »Mittelburgenland DAC« may be made as of the 1st of June of the year following the vintage.

Reserve: In order to show the designation Reserve on the label (this may be used in conjunction with a single vineyard or brand designation), the wine must be full-bodied, and must exhibit fruity, spicy taste characteristics typical of the varietal. The wine must be matured in traditional large oak barrels and/or in barriques. The alcohol content must be stated on the label, and must be a minimum of 13 %. The wine may not be sold or passed on to consumers before the 1st of March of the second year following the vintage.

The application for allocation of a state control number for a wine with the designation »Mittelburgenland DAC« may be made as of the 1st of January of the second year following the vintage.

So much for an extract of the legal requirements. However, as is so often the case with good wine, this may help to explain the wines, but cannot really describe the wines.

If you are interested in visiting this scenically attractive region, and in meeting the warm, open-hearted winemakers, we recommend that your first stop should take you to the regional vinotheque in Deutschkreutz. Here you will have an opportunity of tasting more than 120 wines, and of getting a first feeling for the region and its wines.

Ergebnisse der Schwerpunktverkostung:
Wine guide

Der Link zur Region:
www.blaufraenkischland.at (German website)

The individual sub-regions and vineyard sites:
detailed vineyard areas (German website)