In an age in which red wines appear to be becoming constantly darker, more extracted, and more concentrated, life is not easy for a grape variety such as Schiava, known in German as Vernatsch. This ancient grape variety from the Alto Adige region produces rather light-coloured wines, in addition to which it is low in both acidity and tannins. Many wine lovers consider it rather derogatively to be a rosé in disguise.

However, many wine lovers see the demise of Schiava’s reputation not only as a result of its unfashionable characteristics. Rather, the wine producers of Alto Adige have a great deal of the responsibility to bear. Far too often, the Schiava is abused as a mass-producing, heavy-bearing grape, sold to tourists and German supermarket chains in litre and 2-litre bottles at low prices. This version of the variety is usually thin and unripe, and tends to confirm even the most negative clichés about the grape.

On the other hand, when ripe grapes are used, with carefully controlled low yields, and sourced from good vineyard sites, Schiava produces a soft, fruity, and in the best instances a tremendously refreshing red wine, with a delicately tart spicy touch that makes it an ideal, versatile companion with food. In spite of its light colour, its moderate tannins and its low acidity, the best Schiava wines achieve surprising depth and complexity, characteristics one often seeks in vain in the much more expensive, barrique-matured, and unfortunately often overoaked Lagrein, Cabernet or Merlot wines of the region. In the meantime, an increasing number of producers is rediscovering the quality of this variety, and one can now once more find many more high-quality Schiava wines in the region than one would have thought possible just a few years ago.

The pergola, traditional trellising system for vines in Alto Adige, Source: EOS Südtiroler Weinwerbung

With increasing quality it is also a positive sign that the differences between the different origins are becoming ever more apparent. The most delicate and elegant version of Schiava is grown around Lago Caldaro, or the Kalterer See. One can easily be mistaken when one takes the first sip of this lightly coloured red wine. However, the best versions are so enticing, and, in spite of their reticence are so complex and persistent, that it is difficult to resist their charms. The bouquet promises red berries, almonds and dried flowers. Once a bottle is opened, it is emptied so rapidly that it is a good idea to keep a second bottle handy just in case.

The most full-bodied variant of Schiava grows in the vicinity of Bolzano, and is marketed as St. Magdalener. These wines are generally significantly more creamy, and have warmer fruit and firmer tannins. It is thus not surprising that the St. Magdalener wines often also appeal to wine drinkers who generally prefer barrique-matured, heavyweight red wines. It must be said that some producers are actively encouraging such consumers by experimenting with at least a small portion of new, small barrels when making the most full-bodied examples in very good vintages. A serious mistake in our eyes: wherever the oak aromas become evident, the wines lose some of their finesse, depth and length, the approach to the mass taste is heavily paid for in terms of a significant loss in identity, and in pure drinking pleasure.

Although it is basically permitted to add a small percentage of Lagrein or Pinot Noir to Schiava in practically all growing regions, it appears that this is practised with great regularity particularly in the Magdalener region. Interestingly, where it is practised, producers speak quite openly about adding Lagrein, whereas the Pinot Noir is hardly ever mentioned, while the aromas of some wines provide a strong indicator that some Pinot Noir has indeed been added. Fortunately, however, in most cases the Schiava retains the upper hand.

The two extreme opposites of Schiava are Lago Caldaro (Kalterersee) on the one hand and St. Magdalener on the other, with Alto Adige Schiava, Grey Schiava or Merano grapes of all weight classes appearing in between. Some producers are now making prestige wines, some of them as special selection wines, some of them as single vineyard wines, often sold under specific brand names. Here, too, a little oak is sometimes used to make things more interesting, and certainly the one or other producer goes a little too far in search of ripeness and concentration, which can only detract from the depth and finesse of the wines, but some of these top-quality Schiava wines are really excellent, and could provide serious competition to many a Pinot Noir wine – and not only those from Alto Adige.

Many vineyards in Alto Adige are located on steep slopes, Source: EOS-Südtiroler Weinwerbung

Generally, Schiava is considered to be a red wine that should be drunk young, most of its fans particularly like the freshness and lively character associated with the variety. However, the best of these wines can benefit from some maturation, and can often show a much better development than the many barrique-matured wines of the region, many of which become more brittle and sooty with time. By now, some producers are consciously making Schiava in a style that will only be at its peak in the second year after the vintage. Whereas many prefer to drink the fresh, fruity style slightly cooled, the more complex examples should be enjoyed at a normal serving temperature for red wine, and should be served in large red wine glasses.

A ripe Schiava bunch, Source: www.laimburg.bz.it

As a partner with food, Schiava is more versatile than many other red wines. Of course, it goes perfectly with the typical Alto Adige snack of bread, cheese and ham, there are few wines that can be combined so readily with cheese, with olives, salads, brawn or even smoked meats. The low tannin levels and moderate acidity of Schiava mean it can even be combined with foods that may make other red wines appear hard or metallic. A really well-made St. Magdalener is a match for many a roast.

Our tastings, held over the past few weeks, have revealed a number of excellent, sometimes even exciting wines. It really does seem that the 2006 vintage was one that provided many options and possibilities. It was gratifying to note that there were only a few more negative exceptions, whereas the vast majority of wines submitted for tasting can be recommended with a good conscience. We have put together a parcel of seven of the best wines, and sent this out to the members of our regular tasting circle. In addition, many other wines from the area deserve our attention.

You will find the tasted wines sorted by the DOC here:

St. Magdalener

Kalterersee

Alto Adige