If one ignores for the moment the new regulations concerning the Wagram and Klosterneuburg wine-growing regions in Austria, which have not yet come into effect, the the Traisental valley is the newest wine-growing region in Austria. The region became independent after its separation from the Donauland wine-growing region in 1995. This was a logical development, as the Traisental differs significantly from the larger area to which it was previously adjoined without any good reason, in terms of climate, geography, soils and topography.

Clearly labelled: Traisental DAC

The Traisental wine-growing region is one of the smallest in Austria, with just over 700 growers cultivating a total vineyard area of 683 hectares. The dominant variety is Grüner Veltliner, which accounts for more than 60% of the total, followed by Riesling, with around 11% of production volume, the remainder is split among the usual white varieties found in Austria, the share of red varieties is negligible. This means that almost ¾ of the wines produced in the Traisental region are possible candidates for recognition as DAC wines. The region stretches from the banks of the Danube River close to the town of Krems to the regional capital of Lower Austria, St. Pölten, with some of the vineyards located on the last cliffs of the Waldviertler granite plate, on the Traisen river. Most of the gentle slopes have a south-easterly exposure. The granite breaks through in some parts of the slopes, whereas in the flatter sections dry, sandy soils with gravel and clay predominate.

Traisental is the latest region to be accorded DAC status, with the 2006 vintage still being permitted as a parallel vintage in terms of designations. This means that wine producers had the choice of marketing their wines as either Traisental DAC, or as Traisental quality wines.

The Traisental DAC regulations are the first in Austria to permit the use of two grape varieties, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Naturally, the grapes must be sourced exclusively from the region, the wine must be bottled in the region, and must be bottled in glass bottles only.


In terms of the regulations, the wines must have the following properties:

Technical:

Alcohol: labelled as either 12,0 or 12,5 alc. % Vol.
Sugar: residual sugar up to 4 g/l for Grüner Veltliner, up to 9 g/l for Riesling

Taste:

Grüner Veltliner: „fresh, fruity, spicy, no botrytis notes evident, no oak, not overly alcoholic“.
Riesling: „full-bodied, crisp, aromatic, mineral notes, no botrytis evident, no oak, not overly alcoholic.“


These wines are thus quality wines that have to comply with the legal requirements, and additionally have been found to be typical of the region by a strict tasting panel. Each year in January the IK Traisental commission will determine a reference wine in a blind tasting, and this wine is made available to tasters as a comparative standard. If the DAC tasting panel determines that a wine does not comply with the requirements in terms of taste, it can naturally then still be legally sold as a quality wine from the Lower Austria wine-growing region.

A question that is now being hotly debated in the region concerns special vineyard-specific wines, which might by and large comply with the taste requirements, but might not comply with the technical specifications. This could apply to wines produced from extremely ripe grapes, which then have a higher level of alcohol after fermentation, higher than the DAC regulations permit. There are no differences with regard to the specification “no botrytis”. This is thus a question that revolves around the most valuable wines of the region, which may not be referred to as DAC wines in terms of the current regulations. Our theme tasting shows that the DAC wines submitted are generally of very good and even excellent quality, and that at fairly moderate alcohol levels (for dry wines!). This sounds like an argument in favour of retaining the current regulations. On the other hand, one must naturally question why great terroir wines that might have an alcohol content of 13,5% should not be worthy of the DAC designation. We look forward with interest to see what the responsible parties in the region decide. From our point of view we can say that the launch of the new DAC has gotten off to a very successful start, and that we will take a positive stance towards whatever decision is taken in this matter. We are not revealing any secrets if we mention that the tendency in the region is in favour of also recognising the „special“ wines.

Certainly, the „classic“ wines submitted to us virtually all provided a perfect expression of the regulations for DAC Traisental wines.

A selection of very good wines of the 2006 vintage can be found here.