The Xynomavro is a red grape variety and, something that is the rule rather than the exception in Greece, an indigenous variety. The name translates as “black and sour”, which does not sound too appealing, particularly in an age of fruit-driven, approachable, soft wines. And apart from that? Perhaps it would be advisable to initially take a look at what I would call the technical side of things. The Xynomavro grape can be found mainly in northern Greece, in Macedonia. The main classified regions of origin in which it is grown are Naoussa, Amyntaio (Amynteon), Goumenissa and Rapsani.
As far as the variety is concerned, it is not totally homogeneous in appearance. While the shape of the leaves remains the same. But there are several variants in terms of the appearance of the grape bunches, varying from fairly large berries and long clusters to small berries and compact clusters. There are some differences in taste, too, the tannin-dominated clones, which is already evident when you taste the berries, which are very crisp and rather tart, are no longer in widespread use, they have had to yield to more fruity and softer variants.
The basic characteristics of the variety, namely a certain amount of acidity as well as solid tannins, already indicate that this is a variety with good maturation potential. Red berries, some plums and cherries characterise the flavour profile of young wines made from the variety. Mature wines show notes of plums, tomatoes and olives. Unfortunately, these characteristics have become something of an impediment in our modern wine world, the whole trend is in favour of wines that are approachable in their youth, and that can be drunk and enjoyed almost immediately. To achieve that, Xynomavro is frequently blended with Merlot. In this regard, a well-known oenologist from Naoussa has coined the phrase: „Xynomavro is the skeleton, while Merlot is the flesh“. There is certainly something to this dictum, but Xynomavro can also impress as a pure varietal wine, provided it is pampered in the vineyard, its yields kept low, it is treated with great care in the cellar, and, above all, if it is given some time to mature. Recent findings in the field of micro-oxidation are of considerable relevance for Xynomavro. If you like puristically produced Nebbiolo, Sangiovese Grosso, Malbec, Tannat and other similar wines, you will be sure to find pleasure in a good Xynomavro.
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What could be better in getting to know and understand a variety than to visit the place where it grows, and study it at first hand? Getting there from Germany is easy enough, a two-hour direct flight takes you to Thessaloniki, which is practically at the heart of the wine-growing region. A real boon is the association “Wine roads of northern Greece”, which was founded in 1993, and is strongly focussed on quality. That applies not only to wines and wineries, but also to hotels and restaurants in the region. All operations are carefully examined, and are only accepted into the association after thorough vetting. Naturally, there are also a number of interesting producers and operations in the region that have not yet been included, but as a good guideline to the region, the Wine roads of northern Greece provide more than just a basic introduction, rather a comprehensive overview, and as such are an almost ideal guide and assistant.
Let’s start our little round trip on the topic of Xynomavro in Amynteon. This is a small growing region, located at quite high altitudes of around 550 – 750 metres above sea level. Four lakes as well as rolling, but quite high mountains, as well as a slightly more bracing climate indicate that we can expect to find more aromatic wines here, with something of a “northern” character. A popular skiing area is located less than 30 kilometres from here, so we really are talking about a relatively cool climate. The wine-growing region features a number of different soils, from sand to clay to some gravel. The pure sandy soils are located close to the lakes, and are regarded as the oldest vineyard sites in the region, these are a veritable treasure trove of different clones, and here and there you will find ungrafted vineyards with vines almost 100 years old. The total area planted with Xynomavro amounts to 635 ha. The best person from whom to obtain information on the variety is probably Yiannis Hatzis, a true philosopher, as complex as his wines, and a truly indigenous expert on his region.
Mount Vermion in Naoussa
The wine cooperative in Amynteon, on the other hand, is still seeking its direction, the whole operation is in a transitional phase, and is undergoing complete modernisation. However, one can expect to see some quite good quality to come from here in years to come, particularly as the cooperative is actively trying to encourage the use of better quality clones in the vineyards.
These are problems the relatively young Alpha Estate, which is already quite successful internationally, does not have to worry about. Right from the word go, this enterprise was dedicated uncompromisingly to quality, and it can be seen as a pioneer and shining example for the whole region in terms of both its vineyard work and cellar technology (a term that really applies here, in the most positive sense). This is a winery run by oenologists, with 50 ha of vineyards. Professional, efficient, with high international standards, modern and yet with a healthy respect for tradition, a winery with both a heart and a brain, so to say, that is how one could best describe this exemplary estate.
The most famous wine-growing region in Greece, and also the first to have a classified designation of origin, is Naoussa. The area is characterised by sloping vineyard sites located at the foot of the Vermio mountain ridge, the total vineyard area totals around 700 ha located at an altitude of 80 to 400 metres above sea level, a picture-book idyllic region for tourists. Here, the Xynomavro and viticulture in general are closely associated with the huge company of Boutari, which also has strong international connections. The manner in which this company has placed its stamp on the region in terms of cultural, socio-economic and viticultural aspects must surely be unique. Without Boutari, the focus on the traditional Xynomavro variety, and the level of recognition of these wines would be unimaginable. It was inevitable that in the course of the development of the region a number of interesting wineries, quite independent of Boutari, would also come to the fore. Probably the most interesting of the newer producers is Kir-Yanni, owned by Yiannis Boutaris, a confident, busy man who has separated himself from the big family company, and who is also an important figure in Greek politics. His wines are made in a rather international style, and are widely available in several export markets, including Germany. The Dalamara winery has chosen an interesting path, it is one of the relatively few organic wineries in Greece. Very well made, uncompromising wines that show that slightly special signature and terroir character that could show the direction of how things might develop in this region in future. The wine scene here is lively and quite widespread, so that, if at all possible, you should try to plan on spending more that just a single day in Naoussa. It is quickly obvious that this is an area which has focussed on quality, cellar technology and marketing at an early stage. Also, the wines made from Xynomavro, including blends based on the variety, can be quite varied, which can be accounted for by the fact that the variety is often blended, most frequently with the internationally known classic French varieties. You should definitely not ignore wineries such as Chrisohoou and Founti, these are already fairly well known. Château Pegasus is a special case, its wine (yes, singular!) is only released onto the market once father and son Markovitis agree it is mature. These are very individualistic wines, and they require a bit of concentration to understand them.
Yiannis and Katerina Dalamaras
Goumenissa is by no means as well known, possibly because the region is rather small, with a vineyard area of only 250ha. But it has its own OPAP classification, and rightly so. The Xynomavro wines produced here are quite supple, one is tempted to describe them as easy-drinking, quaffing wines. Certainly, they are all very approachable and drinkable, and make fine companions with food. The reason can in part be found in the indigenous variety Negoska, which is used in this area as a blending partner for Xynomavro. It certainly gives one food for thought to see how harmoniously these two indigenous varieties can be partnered, compared with the sometimes rather forced blends with international varieties being attempted in other regions. Whether you are travelling from Thessaloniki, or as we did, from Naoussa to Goumenissa, you should definitely include a short stop at Ligas in Giannitsa. This is not located in the OPAP-classified region of Goumenissa, but that is a point of interest only to statisticians. Certainly you can obtain a very good overview here of what makes up the special character of the wines of this region. Once you have arrived in the region proper, one of the most interesting wineries is that owned by Christos Aidarinis. A modern complex with an equally modern cellar actually creates an impression of the new world of wine, yet most of the wine produced her eis sold by the gallon or litre. Quite an appealing factor in a world of pre-packaged products, but naturally there is a bottling facility, and around 30.00 bottles of wine are produced annually. Quite a different story, but again interesting, when Stergios and Periklis Tatsis present their wines, which are rather austere for the region, but they have a prominent mineral character and are quite tannic. Also, mention must be made of the large-scale producer Boutari, as it can be said of Goumenissa too that viticulture would not be flourishing as well in this region were it not for the involvement of this family, which goes far beyond the world of business into the social sphere. Last but not least, mention must be made of the only hotel in Goumenissa, the „Dimosthenis“. Where else can you find 3 barrels of wine being produced in the hotel cellar, and available for consumption only on the premises? The owner is an enthusiastic expert who knows his viticulture, as well as the distilleries in this appealing region.
Wine producers Christos Aidarinis and Stergios Tatsis
In summary one can say that there are many good reasons for taking a closer look at Xynomavro. The best route, as mentioned at the outset, is to enjoy the legendary hospitality and the often amazing efforts of the producers and restaurants in their home setting.
You will find comprehensive maps and information material on the home page of the “Wine roads of northern Greece“.
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